The Big Road: Oregon's Stagecoach Route

I was inspired by a book by Gary and Gloria Meier, called "Knights of the Whip," to seek out the remaining stagecoach stations on the old stage road known as the "Big Road." The Big Road was a route between Oregon and California used by native Americans, fur trappers, gold prospectors, military, and pioneers. It started as a pack trail and was developed into a wagon road by Jesse Applegate and others. It received appropriations in 1857 for improvements, as it was essential for military operations. Once it was improved to a condition in which heavy wagons could pass with less difficulty, the earliest commercial stage lines were established. On September 15, 1860, the California Stage Company made its inaugural run between Sacramento, California and Portland, Oregon.

Stage stations provided services for the customers and held a reserve stock of stage horses. Most of the stations were privately owned and run by pioneer families, on their Donation Land Claim properties, who contracted with the stage company and got reimbursed for their services. Starting on the Oregon-California border, we tracked down the southern Oregon stations:

Route between Cole's and Barron's Stations in Southern Oregon

The last stage stop in California before going over the Siskiyou Mountains into Oregon (and the first we visited heading north) was Cole's Station. Cole's Station is still standing and can be seen by taking Exit 796 on Interstate 5. Travel west on Hilt Road and take a right in the town of Hilt to stay on Hilt Road. The road runs to the northwest parallel to the railroad tracks and turns into Colestine Road. Cole's Station is one mile up Hilt Road on the right. The stage barn is visible on the left across the road. Cole's was established by Rufus Cole who headed west from Putnam County, New York in 1851 with his brother Byron to search for gold. Both homesteaded ranches in the Colestin Valley under the Donation Land Claim Act of 1850. Rufus built his home next to the Hudson's Bay Pack Trail which became a territorial road in 1855. He used his home at the first location as a stage station until he moved it south to the present location in 1859. The station served as a regular stagecoach stop for around 30 years.

Cole's Station in 1887

The above photo is from "Pioneers of the Colestin Valley"in Southern Oregon Heritage Today, November 1999, Vol. 1 No. 11. Today, the home is a private residence.

Cole's Station in 2019

Stage Barn at Cole's

The next stage stop in Oregon was Barron's Station, with nearby Casey's and Kingsbury's stations, both of which operated at times either when Barron did not contract for stage station services (Casey's) and for a short period after Barron closed his station in 1884 at the end of the stage days (Kingsbury's). Barron's was the first station on the Oregon side of the Siskiyou Mountains.

A biographical sketch of Major Hugh F. Barron was printed in The Oregon Sentinel on Wednesday, March 5, 1879. Major Barron lived with his wife, Martha, in a log cabin until he built a home on the same site in 1858. He acquired a second home, built by James Russell and James Gibbs, for his expanding cattle and sheep ranch. It was this home that became Barron's Station and was located about a quarter-mile north of his first farm house. The second house had already been used as a stage station, and Barron developed it into the "Mountain House" station where his wife was hostess.

The house, presently a private residence at 1148 Old Hwy 99 S, still stands today and can be seen by driving south on Highway 66 toward Emigrant Lake to the Old Siskiyou Highway. Turn right and the house is a quarter-mile on the right. The stage barn was formerly located across the road but no longer exists. In addition, Casey's and Kingsbury's stations no longer exist.

Barron's Station in 2019

The next few stations no longer exist, but we visited the old locations nonetheless:

Route between Barron's and Amerman's Station

Ashland Mills was not an official stage stop as it was only five miles from Amerman's. However, the stagecoach ran along what is now East Main Street, and many passengers stayed the night here. The earliest hotel was known as the "Ashland House," built in the year 1859 by Eber Emery at a cost of $3,000. Emery kept the hotel for 10 years and then sold to Abel Helman, and then to Jasper Houck. The hotel, located across from the I.O.O.F. Building, was demolished in the late 1910s. Images of the former hotel below are from the Southern Oregon Historical Society and from an Archaeological Survey of the Ashland Plaza conducted in 2013. The Ashland House was moved at least twice prior to its demolition. Once, a short distance at the Plaza, and a second time several blocks away to the Town’s Railroad District. Highway 99 and N Main Street now run through the former location.

Ashland House Hotel circa 1867 from "Ashland Plaza: Report on Findings of the 2012-2013 Sub-Surface Archaeological Survey of the Ashland Plaza Project Area Jackson County, Oregon" by Jeff LaLande

Ashland House Hotel in 1880s

Ashland Weekly Tidings - 28 Dec 1921

Amerman's Station was located the present location of 5595 Pacific Hwy, about one mile south of Phoenix, Oregon. Phoenix was known at that time as Gasburg. James Amerman was born around 1824 in Huron County, Ohio. It is believed that he may have come to Oregon in 1852 with his brother, Henry. Amerman purchased 320 acres of farm property from the original Donation Land Claim owner. He started offering stagecoach services in 1860 and passed away in 1871. His widow, Elizabeth, married William S. Stone, superintendent of the O & C Stage Company, on February 22, 1874 and the two kept the station operating. Oatman's Station was a mile north of Amerman's and also no longer exists.

Jacksonville was an important hub for the stagecoach in Southern Oregon. There were many structures dedicated to stagecoach operations, which were owned by the California Stage Company. Several hotels operated in Jacksonville, including the Union Hotel (later known as the United States Hotel) at California and 3rd Streets. The United States Hotel burned in 1873 and the Old Franco-American Hotel on Oregon and Main Streets, owned by Jeanne DeRoboam Holt became the official stop. Ms. Holt later purchased the burned United States Hotel and converted it into an elegant hotel which opened on November 19, 1880 and stands today. Unfortunately, the O&C Stage Company decided to make the official stop at the New State Hotel across the street from Ms. Holt's hotel. The Old Franco American Hotel burned in 1886.

From "Pictures in Time" by the Southern Oregon Historical Society

United States Hotel building in 2019

Route between Amerman's Station and Croxton's Station

The next stop north of Jacksonville was the community of Rock Point. The Rock Point community was founded by J.B. White in the early 1850s. J.B. fought in the Rogue Indian Wars, and in exchange for his service, he received land on which he developed a homestead on the south side of the Rogue River. A flood in 1861-1862 destroyed the bridge over the Rogue River and his home on the south side. He moved his home to the north side of the river and, in 1863, decided to open a store and sold the property to L.J. White (no relation). L.J. immediately began constructing a new bridge and stage station called the Rock Point Hotel in 1864.  On February 8, 1865, the hotel opened to the public with a grand ball. Lytte White died on October 28, 1878 and his sons and wife continued to run the stage stop at Rock Point. His son Henry bought out his mother and brothers and renovated the old hotel in 1887. But, by the turn of the century the hotel had closed and Henry had returned to farming. The building was purchased in 1907 by orchardist F. K. Deuel and others. It is the current site of Del Rio Vineyards and Winery.

Rock Point Hotel in 2019

Croxton's Station was 14 miles north of the Rock Point Station near 7th Street and Savage in current Grants Pass, Oregon. A newspaper article dated October 31, 1974 says the location was farther north, near Interstate 5 at about Vine and Highland Avenues. Thomas Frederick Croxton arrived in Illinois from Staffordshire, England in 1843 with his wife Hannah Box and seven children.  In 1849, he traveled to the west to try gold mining and was a traveling Methodist preacher before moving to Josephine County in 1857 to continue prospecting for gold. He acquired the property for the stage station in 1864 and began operating it with the help of his son-in-law, Ebenezer Dimmick. There was an earlier station just north of Grants Pass called Louse Creek Station, but the station was closed when the Big Road was re-routed to an easier grade over Merlin Hill (the present Interstate 5). After his wife died in 1866, Thomas Croxton became a pastor in Coos Bay, which was then known as Marshfield.  Ebenezer Dimmick continued operating the stage station until the end of the stage days. Nothing remains of the station, but Croxton's home is still standing (built 1866) at 1002 Northwest Washington Boulevard in Grants Pass. Croxton died in 1868.

Route from Grants Pass to Canyonville

The Grave Creek House was the next stop located 13 miles north of Croxton's. Formerly a region of conflict with the Native Cow Creek Umpqua tribe, James H. Twogood came to the site in 1851 to lay out his Donation Land Claim. He called the land “Grave Creek Ranch,” in memory of pioneers who perished there traveling north to Portland in 1846. Oregon Legislature passed an act renaming Grave Creek to Leland Creek in January 1854. By 1855, Twogood and McDonough Harkness acquired a former rest house (Grave Creek House #1 / 1854) for Applegate Trail travelers along Grave Creek, built a hotel, and contracted with the O&C Stage Company as a stage stop in 1860. A new hotel known as the Grave House #2 (1860) operated until it burned down in 1875. Then, a nearby farmhouse was enlarged enough to accommodate the stage company and was known as the Grave Creek House #3 (1876) or Harkness Inn. The Hugo Neighborhood Association provides a brochure with details on the station. The Grave Creek House stood just to the east of what is the old Pacific Highway (US-99) and north of today’s Grave Creek covered bridge. The Grave Creek covered bridge still stands and is off Interstate 5, Exit 71 with a marker providing history on the Grave Creek ranch.

Location of former Grave Creek House

Grave Creek House (later, Leland Creek House) from Josephine County Historical Society/Larry McLane

Wolf Creek Tavern was not an official stagecoach stop, but the roadside inn was used by other travelers en route to Southern Oregon and California.The hotel was the stopping place of President Hayes on his first trip to Oregon. According to a 1948 article in The News-Review and other sources, it is claimed that Ulysses Grant, Clark Gable, John Wayne, Jack London and author Sinclair Lewis stayed at the lodge, and one of the first three lodges of the I.O.O.F. was reportedly organized in its attic. The stage stop still operates as a restaurant and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Wolf Creek Tavern in 2018

Dining Area at Wolf Creek Tavern

Established by pioneer Daniel Levens, the Levens Station was situated 13 miles north of Grave Creek and was a home station for drivers. Mr. Levens was active in other businesses including a store, hotel and grist mill in Canyonville. Levens re-built his original stage house in 1880 with a larger and more elaborate structure. Fred Tice drove the stage in 1878 and 1880 from Rock Point to Levens Station, a 45 mile drive on the old stage route. Tice lost a six-horse team by spring flood waters in Cow Creek on March 4, 1879 during the night (Medford Mail Tribune, 1 Sep 1931). There were few bridges at that time and fording was common. The Levens Station burned to the ground in 1931 according to The News-Review, 16 Mar 1932.

The Overland Hotel, formerly known as the Canyonville Hotel, was located on the corner of what was once Washington and 1st Streets (now 5th and Main) in Canyonville, Oregon. The hotel was built in the 1860s by John Arzner and George Wagner. It was originally constructed for a lodge room and store and was later used as a hotel because the emigrant stage travel became so heavy that another hotel was needed. It was run by David McCallen and his wife Electa between 1865 and 1867, and by William and Christina Spicer in the 1870s. William Spicer died in 1876 and his wife continued to run the stage stop until it was purchased by William Briggs in 1886. The Briggs family kept the property which was converted back into a grocery store until it was partially torn down in the 1950s.

The News-Review, Roseburg, Oregon, 25 Nov 1940

We traveled as far as Canyonville but will save the rest of the route north to Portland for another time!

Applegate Ridge Trail (ART) East

Recently opened in July 2017, this section of the Applegate Ridge Trail (ART) is a 5.6 mile stretch on the eastern end of the proposed 50-mile trail. We hiked this section on two separate days. The first day we entered the trail from Highway 238, about five miles south of Jacksonville. Presently, there is no established parking area at this trailhead, so it is necessary to park along the highway. The gate to the trail is on the east side of the highway. There isn't a sign for the trailhead yet, so it is a little tricky to locate (42.269906, -123.024205). We parked on the west side in order to avoid blocking the gate. Here's what it looks like from the highway (southbound):

Street View of East ART entrance gate (identified with orange arrow) from Highway 238

Applegate Trails Association provides a map of the trail here. It is a moderate climb starting from this side, but the remarkable scenery is worth the effort. Following the ridge tops above the Poorman and Bishop Creek drainages, the trail has a variety of wildflowers and grasses, sun-baked south-facing slopes, and cool sections shaded by large Douglas fir and madrone.

A notable pioneer from this area is George Black who staked his claim on Poorman's Creek.

GEORGE BLACK: lives on Poorman's Creek; is a native of County Down, Ireland; came to Oregon in 1851 and to Jackson County in 1852; is one of the pioneer miners of this country, which calling he still pursues.
~A. G. Walling, History of Southern Oregon, 1884, page 501

After about an hour you will reach a stunning view of the Applegate Valley.

The hike back down (if you do decide to return at this point) is an easy downhill trip. Other points of interest in the area include the Log Town Cemetery located about 1.75 miles south of the ART East trailhead on the east side of Highway 238. The first burials in this Cemetery were made in the 1850s when a busy gold mining camp was in existence along the Jacksonville-Crescent City trail (now Hwy 238). The highway today largely follows the old trail and wagon road, which was established to transport supplies to the mining camps in the area.

On another day, we hiked this trail entering from the western access point off Sterling Creek Road, which has a parking lot, trailhead kiosk, and picnic table.  The views coming from the west are equally stunning.

It is a relatively easy hike, as the trail winds along the mountain side. Some areas of quartz are visible near the beginning of the trail, a reminder that you are in gold country. The Sterling mine, owned by the Sterling Mining Co. incorporated in 1877, was located on Sterling Creek, a branch of Little Applegate River. It was, at one time, the largest hydraulic mine in the state, possibly the western U.S. The gold from this region was high in silver giving it a pale color. During this time, large areas of the riverbeds of Sterling Creek and the lower Little Applegate River were excavated.

The Medford Mail - November 27, 1903

You will most certainly be inspired by the natural beauty of this area. Due to its complex terrain, geology, climate, and biogeographic history, this region of southern Oregon (the Klamath-Siskiyou Ecoregion), is considered to be a global center of biodiversity (Wallace 1982). The region most certainly deserves our attention and protection for future generations.

Taverns in Historical Buildings -- Southern Oregon

While the first Euro-American settlers came to southern Oregon as trappers, urban development in Southern Oregon was initially driven by the California Gold Rush. Many Oregon prospectors streamed to the area from the Willamette Valley in 1848-1849 after word of a gold strike at Sutter's Mill spread throughout the country. Additional discoveries in the Illinois Valley (known as "Sailor's Diggings"), Waldo, Rich Gulch, and Althouse established the importance of the area as a gold mining region. A small mining camp at the head of the confluence of Jackson and Daisy Creeks quickly developed into the town of Jacksonville, and the town was named the county seat in 1852.

There's a lot of history to explore in the Rogue River Valley, and having a solid list of pubs while visiting the area is essential. What's even better is visiting an establishment that is situated in a historical landmark. We've scoured the area for some the best pubs in historical buildings to try.

1. Homestead Pub & Restaurant (119 E Main Street in Rogue River). Originally named Woodville, the town of Rogue River began with a river crossing, known as Evans Ferry, along the California-Oregon Trail. The ferry was set up during the gold rush days of the 1850s. When Mark Whipple opened the Homestead Tavern in 1906, he had a booming business until Prohibition was enacted in 1914. The tavern was converted into a grocery store, cafe and real estate office until 1933 when Prohibition was repealed. Ward Wills, who ran the cafe, converted the market back into a pool hall and bar and named the entire complex the "Homestead" in 1935.

Historical Image from "Rogue River" By Cheryl Martin Sund

The Homestead Pub still has the large neon "H" sign that was added in the 1960s.  Currently the Homestead bills itself as a pub AND restaurant even though it still appears to be more the former than the later. The bar has live music weekly with shuffleboard and pool tables. The menu was standard pub fare, burgers, sandwiches (with excellent French fries), but slim pickins' for vegetarians with only one option.  There is full bar with about 8 beer taps that are dominated by Bud-Miller-Coors monopoly however they do offer a couple good local craft beers.  The friendly clientele is what you would expect from any Southern Oregon dive bar, gravelly-voiced eye-patch-wearing grandmas rubbing elbows with local pot farmers.

2. J'ville Tavern (125 W California Street, Jacksonville). Built in 1856, the J'ville Tavern at 125 W California St, Jacksonville was originally a general merchandise store named Anderson & Glenn General Merchandise. One of the first merchants to sell supplies to the area's gold seekers, John Anderson established his business in this small, rectangular fireproof brick building. The store survived two of Jacksonville's major fires in 1874 and 1884. Anderson joined in partnership with James Glenn, large landowner and town treasurer, in 1859. The men continued to operate a dry goods store here until 1866 or 1867, when the business became Glenn, Drum and Co. In the 1870s, the business operated as Martin and Drum, and then as White and Martin. However, John Anderson maintained ownership of the building until 1877 when it was sold by his widow to Louis Solomon. It was used continuously as a merchandise store until the turn of the century.

Bird's Eye View of Jacksonville 1883 from the Library of Congress

While several businesses have operated here, the J'ville Tavern is currently occupying the building.

Inside, the J-ville Tavern has a full bar, friendly staff and a very respectable tap line-up.  This is not really a place to get food, just more of a watering hole to escape the scorching summer heat or to rehydrate after a day of hiking/biking the surrounding hills.  Hundreds (thousands?) of dollar bills have been pinned to the ceiling by various customers.  The bills are apparently harvested once per year with the money going to a local charity.  Pretty cool. 

3. Grape Street Bar & Grill (31 S Grape Street, Medford). 
In the early 20th century this site on Grape Street (29 and 31 Grape St.) was occupied by a large building used as a livery stable with a blacksmith shop. The Grape Street Bar & Grill building, formerly known as the Davis Storage Warehouse, was most likely was constructed in 1921 after a fire in the old West Side Feed & Sale Stable next door. After construction, the Davis Transfer and Storage Company operated a moving and shipping business here and in the adjacent stable building until the mid-1930s. During WWII, the buildings operated as the City Transfer Company. These two companies (Davis and City Transfer) were among the three or four transfer businesses that existed in Medford at that time. Orchards and ranches relied heavily on them to transport their produce and supplies to and from the railroad freight depot. The building was eventually sold and used as an automobile garage from the mid-1950s through late 1970s. It still has an industrial look with large multi-pane windows and central bay.

The West Side Feed & Sale Stable Building next door at 29 Grape Street in 1909 (National Park Service)

Building front as it looks today with the West Side Feed & Sale Stable Building next door

Interior with exposed brick walls

Today the newly opened Grape Street Bar and Grill occupies the space in addition to a nice patio out-back.  This is a great place to grab a pint and a bite to eat.  Grape Street has a full bar with about 20 really good (mostly Oregon and California) micro brew taps.  The Happy Hour specials here are the best around with dollar off drinks and two dollars off appetizers.  The garlic fries are pretty awesome.  There is live music on the weekends and Tuesdays.  The Tuesday sessions alternate between either blues or jazz.


4. Climate City Brewery (509 SW G Street, Grants Pass). 
The original use for the Climate City Brewery building was.... a brewery! The Grants Pass Brewery was first established at this location in 1887 by William Neurath who built it near his well adjacent to Gilbert Creek. Neurath sold the brewery’s rights to Eugene and Marie Kienlen in 1891 who emigrated from Minnesota. The original building was wooden, which was destroyed in the 1902 fire along with many other buildings on G Street. Kienlen rebuilt the brewery with fireproof brick. Kienlen transferred the property to his wife in 1904 after he learned of a serious illness which took his life that same year. Marie held the business until 1908, when Grants Pass passed a local prohibition ordinance. The business subsequently closed down. Other businesses operated here including a saddle and harness store, a granary, grocery store, warehouse, art gallery, and restaurant.

Grants Pass Brewery Historical photo from "Grants Pass" by Joan Momsen and Oregon Brew Lab

1890 Sanborn Map depicting Grants Pass Brewery

Today, you can still dine and drink some locally brewed craft beer on a comfortable patio situated next to Gilbert Creek. If you choose to stay inside, you'll enjoy dining in a rustic atmosphere with tall ceilings, exposed duct work, wood beams, and exposed brick walls.

Acacia Cooper started as brewmaster at Climate City in May 2016. There is an extensive list of house beers available currently including (as of this writing):

Rainie Falls Red ABV 5.5%, IBU 50

Bigfoot Bourbon Porter ABV 6.6%, IBU 32

Fireside Dark Ale ABV 6.8%, IBU 37

Citrodora Strong Ale ABV 6.9%, IBU 37

Hyperion Porter ABV 6.5%, IBU 32

Hot Shot Smoked Helles ABV 5.1%, IBU 28

Winter Wonderbier  ABV 7.6%, IBU 20

Takilma Kolsch  ABV 5.0%, IBU 28

Nookie IPA  AVB 7.2%, IBU 80

"No Stout About It" Stout  ABV 5.6%, IBU 26

Savage IPA  ABV 7.0%, IBU 90

River Town Brown ABV 5.0%, IBU 20

Maracuya Gose ABV 4.5%, IBU 18

Ray's Imperial Red ABV 7.2%, IBU 53

Powerhouse 100 Double IPA ABV 8.2%, IBU 100

Roguator Dopplebock ABV 7.0%, IBU 33

Yellowbelly Blonde ABV 5.4%, IBU 21

French Roast Coffee Stout ABV 5.6%, IBU 26

Happy Hour food is served Tuesday-Friday from 3pm-6pm.  On weekdays Climate City has one of the best lunch specials around:  ten bucks for a burger, fries and a pint!

5. Omer's Restaurant (1380 Siskiyou Blvd, Ashland). 
Located near the Southern Oregon University campus, Omer's Restaurant is part of Ashland's history as its oldest restaurant and first public cocktail lounge. The restaurant, opened in 1946 by Omer and Hazel Hill, was built by the owners themselves. They planned to call it "Omer's" but the sign painter incorrectly spelled it as "Omar's."

When you step inside it's like stepping back in time. The booths and Formica tables may even be original. While the restaurant has changed hands, the restaurant's website provides some background on the original owners.

According to a Jefferson Public Radio story, Ashland’s mayor encouraged Omer to open a cocktail lounge in the 1950s because the Elks Club and a few other places served only beer and wine and shut down early. The vintage signs are still in use and the building hasn't changed much since then.

Mexico City and the Free and Sovereign State of Oaxaca, Mexico

Birding, Ruins, and More in Mexico City and the Free and Sovereign State of Oaxaca, Mexico

We flew to Oaxaca, Mexico to escape the wettest February on record in Portland, Oregon. The warm temperatures and sunshine were a relief from the damp sunless days. We love Oregon, but it's always nice to have a break in late winter. We started the trip in Mexico City, staying in a borough called Coyoacán. It is a quiet neighborhood with cobblestone streets and Spanish colonial buildings. It's also the location of the Frida Kahlo museum, arguably the most popular destination. The line was so long all day long that we decided to skip it and visit the former home of Russian Communism theorist, Leon Trotsky, which was a few blocks away.

Frida Kahlo Museum

Leon Trotsky was granted asylum in Mexico after being forced into exile by Josef Stalin in 1929. Trotsky and his wife first lived in the blue house with Kahlo and Rivera. But, after a falling out about a year later, they moved to a nearby home, built like a fortress with a watch tower and guards' quarters. It was fortified to protect him from assassins.

A Marxist, Trotsky popularized socialist ideas and helped organize the South Russian Workers' Union. He was sent to prison where he met other revolutionaries. He and his wife were sentenced to exile in Siberia, escaped, and moved to London where he wrote for a political newspaper of Russian socialist emigrants (Iskra). The couple eventually divorced. Trotsky met Natalia Ivanovna Sedova and  remarried. He continued to write for socialist newspapers in various countries, being deported multiple times and again returning to Russia to support the Russian Revolution of 1917 which ended the monarchy. A new government was set up with Leon Trotsky as foreign commissar. Trotsky eventually resigned the position was appointed People's Commissar of Army and Navy Affairs in which he gained full control of the Red Army. When Lenin died, Stalin aligned with others against Trotsky. He was expelled from the Soviet Union to Turkey, then France, Norway, and ultimately Mexico. He was killed in 1940 by Russian assassins.

Trotsky lived in this Coyoacán house until his death. The construction of the house began in 1903. It was originally owned by Mr. Antonio Turati as a country residence. It had a large garden, watch tower, and T-shaped residence. Trotsky rented the property after doing some remodeling and fortification and moved in on May 5, 1939. In April 1940 he purchased it with funds from the Socialist Workers' Party of the United States.

Trotsky Residence

After purchasing the home, Trotsky made modifications such as raising the level of the walls around the garden, building a guard tower, a guard house, chicken coop and garage.

Dining Room

The house has seven rooms: the kitchen, the dining room, a bathroom, the study of Trotsky, the office of Natalia and the secretaries, the bedroom of the grandson and the bedroom of Trotsky and Natalia. The Mexican government purchased the home after Trotsky's death in 1940 and his wife lived there until her death in 1962.

Trotsky Grave Site

After touring the house, we took a taxi to the Zócalo, or main square. We started a walking tour at the Palacio Nacional, which was closed for the day. We had seen this during a previous trip, so we started instead at the Metropolitan Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary into Heaven. Built in sections from 1573 to 1813, the cathedral sits on top of a sacred Aztec site. Conquistadors used stones from the destroyed temple of the Aztec god of war to build it.

Cathedral of the Assumption of the Most Blessed Virgin Mary

Next we visited the adjacent Templo Mayor, which is an excavation site for one of the main Aztec temples of Tenochtitlan (the Aztec capital city). The main shrine on this site stood 150 feet high, but it was demolished by the conquistadors who used the stones to build the adjacent cathedral. The Archaeological Institute of America provides a good description of the site. In 1978, electrical workers discovered a large stone disc carving of the Aztec moon goddess Coyolxauhqui. The city subsequently tore down the colonial buildings and began excavation of the ruins. The museum at the site contains findings from the excavation, but we didn't have time for a tour.

Templo Mayor

We walked towards the Palacio de Correos de Mexico (Postal Palace of Mexico City), which was designed by the same architect that designed the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Adamo Boari). The postal palace was built between 1902 and 1907 and it has remained in continuous operation as a post office.

Postal Palace

Palacio de Bellas Artes

We walked on to the Casa de los Azulejos (House of Tiles). This is a palace remodeled with tiles in the 18th century by the Count del Valle de Orizaba family, one of the wealthiest families in Mexico. The entire exterior of the house is covered in glazed ceramic tiles. The house was acquired in 1919 by the Sanborns, a retail company.

Casa de los Azulejos

We took a spin though the Torture Museum. Really horrific devices are on display.

The next day we flew to Oaxaca City. One of the first sites we saw was a free orchestral performance on the zócalo. We visited a few sites in the main tourist zone, first of which was the Casa de Benito Juarez. Benito Juarez was president of Mexico for five terms from 1858 to 1872. He is remembered for bringing equal rights to the indigenous population, reducing influence of the Roman Catholic Church in Mexican politics, and defending national sovereignty when France occupied Mexico and Napoleon III tried to transform it into a monarchy.

Casa de Benito Juarez

Another notable site in Oaxaca City is the Templo de Santo Domingo. The adjacent structure was formerly a convent and has been transformed into a Cultural Museum (Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca). Construction on this complex began in 1575 and wasn't completed until 1619 although the friars occupied it in 1608 when an earthquake destroyed their San Pablo convent. The military occupied the building throughout its history, so much of the original interior decoration was destroyed.

Templo de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca City

Inside the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

From inside the Museum, there is a nice view of the Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca, a botanical garden that features plants from Oaxaca State. Visits are by guided tour only.

Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca

The museum is large and can take a good part of the day to tour. There are countless artifacts, pre-Hispanic pottery, jewelry, tools, and the famous turquoise skull which was discovered in 1931 within the Treasury of Tomb 7 at Monte Albán.

Turquoise Skull from Monte Alban

We ended the day enjoying some mezcal with beer and peanuts roasted with chilies. The following morning we drove to Monte Albán, which is about 20 minutes southwest of the city center. The site was inhabited over a period of 1,500 years by the Olmecs, Zapotecs and Mixtecs. Its features were carved out of the mountain in 500 BC. There are carved stone monuments on the site known as the "Danzantes" or dancers. The carvings are of naked men with mutilated genitals and are said to represent sacrificed victims.

Danzantes

It's possible to climb up the South Platform for an incredible view of the site. There is a large flat area on top with two small pyramid temples separated by a patio. Many websites describe the history and structures at the site in detail.

South Platform

The rest of the day was spent driving to the Sierra Norte region. We saw few birds there, probably because we arrived in the mid-day. We decided to drive back down and explored some of the small towns south of Oaxaca City including El Tule and Teotitlán del Valle, a small village known for its weaving. The next day, we wanted to drive south to the coast. We took the highway to Puerto Angel.

En route, we first stopped at the Mitla ruins about 44 km south of Oaxaca City. Mitla, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was a Zapotec religious center. Individually cut and polished mosaics cover the buildings and tombs. The pieces were fit together without mortar. The site grew to its largest size between the years 750 and 1521 and was still operating when the Spanish arrived. In 1544, the Spanish built the Church of San Pablo on top of a Mitla platform.

San Pablo church next to ruins

Mitla mosaic tiles

There are tombs under some of the buildings, also decorated in mosaic tiles. Cadavers were deposited in the tombs with offerings. As new cadavers were added, the previous were moved aside. These tombs are larger and more ornate than those at Monte Alban.

Entrance to one of the Mitla tombs

We continued on. The road to Puerto Angel is a treacherous highway that twists and turns with steep drop-offs and few guard rails. The twisting, turning road seems to go on and on with tope (speed bump) after tope.














 












We again stopped midway in a town called San Jose del Pacifico, which sits precariously on the edge of a steep mountain side. We took the opportunity to do some birdwatching from our lodge, the Refugio Terraza de la Tierra. Most abundant species were Townsend's Warbler and Yellow-Rumped Warbler. The town is known for its hallucinogenic mushrooms but we didn't seek those out. Very nice cabins and property.

Dwellings near San Jose del Pacifico

The next day we had another long, winding drive to Puerto Angel on the coast. Puerto Angel is not a touristy town and is pretty basic. The surf and coastline were very dangerous. The ocean is not inviting and there were red flag warnings of rip tides.

We moved onward to Zicolito Beach and finally reached our destination: Zicaleta Beach in Puerto Escondido. Beautiful sunset.

Zicaleta Beach, Puerto Escondido, Mexico

The next morning we got up early for a bird watching trip we had booked in the Laguna Manialtepec. It's a coastal lagoon about 18 km west of Puerto Escondido known for bird watching and bioluminescence from algae living in the lagoon. We had a good day and saw plenty of birds. Unfortunately we didn't book well in advance and our guide was not very knowledgeable. My favorite of the trip were the Woodstork, Boat Billed Heron and mating Great Frigate Birds. The Bare-Throated Tiger Heron was also very beautiful. It's hard to choose a favorite.

Mating Great Frigate Birds

Mangrove Trees in Laguna Manialtepec

The next day we started early because the drive back to Oaxaca City was 5.5 hours. Again, the road was treacherous. It must have been so tiring for Jeff because it was tiring just sitting there! Once in the city, we ended the trip with a tasting of some high-end mezcal in the In Situ Mezcaleria tasting room. We sampled mezcal made from a variety of agave plants. It was very educational. Overall a really nice trip.