Upper and Lower O'Brien Creek Trail

As the crow flies, the O'Brien Creek Trail #900 is situated about 7.7 miles directly south of the town of Williams, Oregon. It is possible to begin hiking at the lower trailhead, or continue driving to the end of the Forest Road 1005 and begin at the Upper O'Brien Creek trailhead. Hiking both trails with a couple of short diversions, we logged 7.1 miles and an elevation gain of 2,303 feet. The lower trail closely follows O'Brien Creek although the best view (from the trail) on this stretch is right at the trailhead.  

The lower trail winds through lush riparian habitat, and the tranquil sound of the water tumbling down the rocky mountainside is constant. The area burned in the 2017 Creedence Fire, which began with a lightning strike. The fire burned approximately 2,093 acres on both sides of the divide, including portions of O’Brien Creek.

Hydraulic mining occurred in this area during the late 19th century. According to a 1996 Department of the Interior publication (Stories on the Land: An Environmental History of the Applegate and Upper Illinois Valleys), O'Brien Creek water was diverted for mining via a ditch that is currently used to divert irrigation water to Thompson Creek. Some of the area around O'Brien Creek was reportedly harvested for timber in the 1950s. Forest Road 1005 which leads to O'Brien Creek was constructed in the late 1950s through the 1960s by timber purchasers (Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest Roads Analysis 2004). The creek was reportedly named for John O'Brien, farmer and stock raiser born in Galway, Ireland. He apparently trailed cattle from his lower Applegate River ranch to the meadows in the Grayback Mountain-Sugarloaf Peaks area. John came to the region in 1852 and was said to have found a pocket of gold worth $28,000. He spent all of the money digging a 13 mile diversion ditch out of O'Brien Creek to work the deposit (Notes on Historical Events as related by Ranger Lee Port, Rogue River Historical Information, Applegate Ranger District, 1943).

According to an Applegate Watershed Assessment prepared by the Applegate River Watershed Council in 1994, O'Brien Creek and nearby Sturgis Creek were once widely-known as blue-ribbon trout streams; however, few large fish are present today. The report states that some populations of cutthroat are present in remote headwater areas. The upper trail continues along the creek until a split that leads to the Grayback Snow Shelter (a cabin that was used before snow surveys were automated). Take a right to continue on towards Boundary Trail.

At this point, the trail leaves the creek and winds up the slope toward the Grayback Mountain and the intersection of Upper O'Brien Creek trail, Boundary Trail and Grayback Mountain Trail.

The upper trail continues through the forested slope, passing through areas containing evidence of bears and examples of soil creep.

 

At the junction with the Boundary Trail, there is a sweeping view of the Grayback Mountain slopes with Mount McLoughlin in the distance. From this point, the trail will split toward Grayback Mountain Trail (to the north) and Boundary Trail (to the south), which is a 15.6 mile ridgeline trail that travels through high mountain meadows and divides the Illinois, Klamath, and Applegate drainages.

Devil's Peak in Sky Lakes Wilderness

In 1984, Congress approved designation of the Sky Lakes Wilderness, a 181-square-mile area in the southern Oregon Cascades. It is situated within the Rogue River–Siskiyou and Fremont–Winema national forests and contains more than 200 pools of water formed when glaciers retreated from the area. The lakes are concentrated in four main lake basins: McKee, Blue Canyon, Seven Lakes, and Sky Lakes. According to the U.S. Forest Service, Lakes Alta and Natasha in this basin were found in an EPA study of acid-rain conditions in Western U.S. mountain lakes, to have among the most chemically pure water in the world. Glaciers formerly covered this area in three glacial lake basins: Sky Lakes, Seven Lakes and Blue Canyon.

The journey begins on Seven Lakes Trail #981 which leads you through an understory filled with huckleberry shrubs. Tree cover is mostly Shasta Red fir, lodgepole pine, and mountain hemlock with whitebark pine in the higher elevations. Although rarely seen, the American three-toed woodpecker (Picoides dorsalis) reportedly uses the area according to a 1987 Draft Environmental Impact Statement. These birds are often near high elevation lakes and feed on bark beetles. The lower trail from the forest road to Frog Pond is heavily damaged from equestrian use, so this stretch is loose rock and slow going.  

You will pass Frog Pond on the right, shortly after which you reach the trail junction for Devil’s Peak Trail #984. Once you reach the turn off to Devil's Peak, there is less damage and the hike is more pleasant. 

After the turnoff, you will eventually enter a large block field where there is a distant view of the wilderness area. Block fields are large areas of angular rock that have been created by regular freeze-thaw activity fragmenting exposed rock. Many of the rocks are massive and the slopes are fairly steep; however, the trail is clear.

After the block field, the trail is again smooth until the immediate ascent to Devil's Peak. It is not a difficult ascent although the best views of the lakes to the north are seen from the saddle at around 7,300 feet elevation. The summit, has an incredible view in all directions including Mount Shasta, Upper Klamath Lake, Mount Thielsen, the Crater Lake rim, neighboring peaks Lucifer, Juniper, Venus and Lee. The north face of Devil's Peak is a sheer cliff.

Remnants of a former Forest Service lookout were visible during our visit. According to a August 23, 1959 story in the Medford Tribune, the live-in lookout was built in 1930 and supplied by pack train every two weeks. The person stationed at the lookout hiked two miles down the trail to neighboring Lee peak every morning for water until the pack train began hauling it in. The lookout was reportedly destroyed in 1968. 

Boundary Springs Trail - The birthplace of the Rogue River

This is an easy to moderate hike. It begins at the Mount Mazama viewpoint off Highway 230 and follows the Rogue River (5.4 miles roundtrip) to its headwaters at Boundary Springs. Our elevation gain was only 759 feet, so it is fairly flat. The headwaters consist of a beautiful, moss covered, crystal clear spring that rushes out of the hillside. In July, the logs are apparently covered in monkeyflowers; however, they had faded at the time we visited in mid October. The water source was formerly believed to be Crater Lake, but it has been determined that it is actually from rain and snowfall that percolates through the volcanic pumice and travels laterally toward the springs along a less permeable rock layer beneath.

Be aware that after about a mile into the hike, the trail intersects a Forest Service road. Turn right and head up the road for about 75 feet before turning left, back onto the Boundary Springs trail. Central Oregon Geographica provides a very nice map and trail summary. In 2015, the area was burned by the National Creek Complex Fire. However, there were signs of recovery with pine seedlings covering the landscape. Pines apparently do better than firs in hot fire-prone areas.

The hike is exciting in that it winds along the river, ultimately leading to its source. At the time, the pearly everlasting were releasing their seeds and leaves were beginning to turn fall colors.

As you travel upstream, the trail crosses the narrow river at two points. Eventually, you will encounter a section where it tumbles down a small double waterfall which is located a short distance downstream of the springs. This area is reportedly territory of the American dipper (Cinclus mexicanus), a bird that forages in whitewater. It is also know to walk underwater!

Eventually, you will reach the intersection of the Boundary Springs Trail and Bald Crater Loop Trail. Continuing on the Boundary Springs route, the water tumbles through a marshy, log-covered channel on your left. The trail ends where the water pours from the hillside into a watercourse several feet wide. Physical disturbance of the plants in this sensitive location would be harmful due to the unique presence of water here in the summer months. Summer water is otherwise scarce in this area. The crystal clarity of the water is remarkable.  

I think there is an even greater appreciation of this location if you are familiar with the Rogue River farther downstream. The river provides drinking water for over 200,000 people, recreation, and habitat for fish and wildlife. It is so important that it is protected. Since 2008, eight dams have been removed from the Rogue River and its tributaries including Gold Ray (2010), Savage Rapids (2009), Gold Hill (2008) on the main stem. The river now runs free for 157 miles from Lost Creek Lake to the Pacific Ocean at Gold Beach. The last dam standing is the William L. Jess dam, constructed in 1977 for flood control, which impounds Lost Creek Lake.

Crater Lake National Park, Garfield Peak Trail

If you wish to avoid the crowds and enjoy cooler temperatures, October is a great time to visit Crater Lake National Park, Oregon's only national park (founded in 1902). Depending on when you visit, you may encounter wildfire smoke. We were fortunate that the fire season was slow this year and enjoyed stunning views of the pristine water. The water is so clear because it is fed by snow and rainfall rather than rivers and streams. It is truly spectacular and should definitely not be missed when touring southern Oregon. There are so many beautiful photographs and informative sites online that I will just summarize some of the other resources, interesting facts, and share some of our own images we captured from Garfield Peak trail. 

The lake was formed by the collapse of Mount Mazama in a series of eruptions that occurred around 7,700 years ago. Ash from the eruption extends into Canada to the north, Nevada to the south, and Idaho/Montana to the east.

At a depth of 1,949 feet, it is the 2nd deepest lake in North America and deepest lake in the United States. No streams flow into or out of the lake. The lake is roughly 4.97 miles wide and 6.02 miles long with a volume of 5 trillion gallons.

Fish are not native to the lake. Six species were originally placed in the lake between 1888 and 1941, only two of which have survived: Rainbow trout and Kokanee Salmon.

Wizard Island is the top of a cone that formed from subsequent volcanism which occurred in the years following the initial eruption.

It is one of the clearest lakes in the world. The level of dissolved organic matter is so low that ultraviolet light penetrates to a depth of 320 feet. The average Secchi disk depth is 102 feet according to the National Park Service.

The Phantom Ship can best be seen from the Phantom Ship Overlook. The small island, comprised of 400,000 year old andesite lava, is the oldest rock above the surface of the caldera and was formed from lava expelled from a vent on the south wall of the caldera.

For additional information on the park and its history, check out the following websites:

1.  National Park Service - This is the official website for the Park and includes a description and map of the hiking trails, hours of operation, Q&A for backcountry permits, lodging and camping options, and other basic information.

2.  Crater Lake Institute - A very comprehensive, free guide and library about Crater Lake. The Crater Lake Institute is an independent, non-profit organization not affiliated with the National Park Service or Crater Lake National Park.

3. Oregon Department of Geology and Mineral Industries - Provides a geologic guide and recreation map.

4. U.S. Geological Survey - Discusses the geology of Mount Mazama, its final eruption and formation of the lake.

5. Lonely Planet - Provides a summary of features, highlights and activities.  

6.  Crater Lake Digital Research Collection - A research collection of park-related scientific and historical/cultural materials.